On the night of the 12th to the 13th of June, Lisbon celebrates St Anthony. The night begins with a marching parade representing the typical old neighbourhoods of Lisbon, down the Avenida da Liberdade. All the recreational groups and associations from the neighbourhoods compete for the title of the best march, costume, music and choreography. The origin of these festivities goes back to the XVIII century, when the French, during the Napoleonic invasions, started the fashion of dancing at military marches, which they called “marche aux falambeaux”, while the common folk paraded with burning torches in their hands. The custom was adopted later on by the Portuguese, who replaced the revolutionary torches with paper balloons and coloured fireworks in their versions of the “flambó marches”, which were customs brought from China in the XVII century and which were used in popular dances and festivals throughout the country.

In the historical centre of the city and in the traditional neighbourhoods people wander through the streets, filling the city with joy and celebrating their saint. From the Castle to the Mouraria, from Graça to Alfama and from Ajuda to Bairro Alto, everyone joins in the party. In every square, alley or passage, groups of residents and social clubs improvise stands or stalls where they sell charcoal-grilled sardines, eaten on a plate or with bread, and washed down with red wine. For those who don’t like the traditional grilled sardine, one can eat a steak sandwich or roast spiced sausage. In the windows one can see sweet basil plants accompanied by coloured paper carnations and a flag alluding to the feasts of the popular saints.

St Anthony was born in Lisbon, near to the Cathedral, where he did his first studies. At the age of 15 he entered the convent of the Order of the Canons Regular of St Augustine. He remained there for two years and asked to be transferred to the Monastery of Santa Cruz in Coimbra, where he studied Theology and Philosophy, and was ordained a priest. He was touched by the fate and martyrdom of the Holy Martyrs of Morocco, he became a Franciscan. He tried to follow in their footsteps, but in Morocco he fell ill and returned to Europe, more exactly Sicily. He proved to be a great preacher, and consequently he was sent to teach Theology in Bologna. He settled in Padua, where he died, aged 40. He was canonized a year after his death, and the countless miracles attributed to His intervention make him one of the greatest performer of miracles.

St Anthony’s Night
Amália Rodrigues
Words and music: Norberto Araújo / Raúl Ferrão 
Here goes the march, but if I didn’t bring
My partner, who would put up with him?
Don’t say yes, don’t say no
The business of love has no precaution
There is no squares for dancing
Luxury thrones instead of basil plants
But without the square called Figueira
Here we go whether we want to or not

Oh night of St Anthony
Oh charming Lisbon
The flowering artichokes
The fireworks exploding
While the neighbourhoods sing
While there are local dances
While there is St Anthony
Lisbon will never die

Lisbon is always cheeky
So many flirts that they form a queue
Don’t say yes, don’t tell me no
Love is destiny, singing is a gift
A song, a watercolour
A open carnation hanging from the window
Pretty Lisbon from my old neighbourhood
Give me your arm
Come dance with me

Alcina Silvestre
Nucleus of Curricular Management
Tel: + 351 21 798 51 28 (Ext: 44104)
E-mail: alcina@fm.ul.pt